Stetind is a classic Norwegian peak nearly 1400 metres above sea-level. No wonder why Stetind in 2002 was voted to be Norway’s national mountain. Stetind is described as a perfect obelisk in pure granite with sweeping ridges rising straight from the fjord.
Stetind is well known among mountain climbers, and has been so for a long time. The top of the peak looks as if it has been formed by four blows of an axe, three vertical and one crosswise. For ages it has been a landmark (also among fishermen in Lofoten) which, well visible from far off, rises high above other nearby peaks.
William C. Slingsby, the British father of Norwegian mountaineering said about Stetind; “The ugliest mountain I ever saw”. Perhaps this had something to do with his failure at achieveing the summit. Stetind was first ascended in 1910. Stetind is 1392 m high and of natural reasons one of the most famous and celebrated mountains in Norway. Its shape is like a giant needle. See it and you’ll never forget it. The peak is a “world in itself”, formed by screes and steep, smooth and slippery slopes of naked rock.
Climbing the normal route to Stetind Our guided tour to Stetind follows the `normal route` which is the easiest way up, traversing the ridge from the foretop (Halls foretop) to the top of Stetind. The tour to Stetind starts with a good trail through a wonderful birch-forest. At 400 m above the sea terrain gets rougher; filled with boulders and sparcely vegetation.
When reaching the Halls foretop we will take a rest, rope up and give you a brief introduction to climbing. Here we will also be exposed to the 750m ridge of serious exposure above 800m granite slabs just a few degrees off vertical, on both sides.
Mysosten block – the crux of the route The main crux of the route is the Mysosten block barely three or four metres in length but quite difficult. The technique is to “hand traverse” a vertical crack in a ledge that rises diagonally. If you need help here; we will do everything necessary to make you do it. None of our clients have failed here, but it has been some blood and tears.
Your feet have nothing more than a smooth 80 degree rock face for friction and the ledge can’t be walked because of an overhang immediately above. After a while you are able to swing a leg up onto the ledge and then crawl along it. All of this is right above a yawning 800m drop beneath you. Going back Mysosten block requires an abseil on the return route. If you have not done abseiling before, this is a scary place to start! Only 30m of abseiling, above an 800m slope of pure granite. We are controlling your moves also here, and trust the ropes, they can hold a load of 3000 kgs. Enjoy it!
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